wb-cycling: GPS apps for Blackberry

wb-cycling: GPS apps for Blackberry: "Endomondo Sports Tracker PRO: Blackberry Download the Endomondo Sports Tracker PRO for Blackberry on App World. Use your mobile as..."

Downhill ...........

http://youtu.be/LSeqn8_Hu4Y

sexy iodine .....................

Tips, tools and resources for making your biking better!

Most cyclists, if they check their bikes at all, wait to do it five minutes before the group is about to start rolling. What's the point? No one's going to wait for you to remedy a cracked frame or a torn sidewall. Be one of the smart ones: Give your bike this once-over before you head out for your first ride of the season, and following each ride thereafter, and you'll always be ready to go at the drop of a hat--er, helmet. 1. QUICK RELEASES CHECK FOR: Side-to-side play in the wheel; QRs or skewers that aren't tight or secure HOW?: Make sure quick-releases are closed all the way, and that bolt-on skewers are securely fastened. ON YOUR NEXT RIDE: Your wheel won't come loose and detach from your bike mid-ride. 2. WHEELS CHECK FOR: Trueness HOW?: While spinning the wheel, watch the distance between the rim and the brake pad. It should be uniform for the entire rotation. If it wobbles, the wheel needs truing.(Watch our pro true a wheel on Bicycling.com). ON YOUR NEXT RIDE: Your wobbly wheel won't lead to more serious problems, such as a shudder while descending or brake pads rubbing. 3. BRAKES CHECK FOR: Grit on the pads, caliper alignment HOW?: If your brakes feel gritty, clean the pads with a rag and degreaser; replace pads if the grooves are worn more than 50 percent compared with new pads. Calipers are aligned if the pads are equidistant from the rim. ON YOUR NEXT RIDE: You won't go to grab the levers only to roll right through the stop sign at the bottom of the hill. 4. TIRES CHECK FOR: Low tire pressure, embedded glass, slices in the tire or sidewall HOW?: Inflate tires to proper pressure, and carefully remove embedded debris with tweezers. A cut tire or sidewall is prone to a blowout and shouldn't be ridden; replace it. ON YOUR NEXT RIDE: Your chances of flatting will greatly decrease, and you may have prevented a nasty mid-ride blowout. 5. SEAT BAG CHECK FOR: Supplies you may have depleted on your ride HOW?: If you used something during a ride, replace it so it's there for the next ride. If your spare tube has been in there for a while, give it a quick inspection to make sure it's still intact. ON YOUR NEXT RIDE: You'll have a spare tube and CO2 cartridge to lend to the guy who didn't follow this post-ride checklist. 6. CLEATS CHECK FOR: Loose bolts and overall wear HOW?: Worn-out cleats won't engage as crisply. You'll know when they've just plain quit on you, then it's time for new cleats. Bolts can loosen over time. If your cleat isn't secure to your shoe, tighten the bolts. ON YOUR NEXT RIDE: Your foot won't pop out without warning, and you won't tumble to the ground because you couldn't disengage your cleat. 7. FRAME CHECK FOR: Cracks, especially at the joints HOW?: Using a rag and bike polish, wipe dirt and moisture from your frame. Look for cracks, flaking paint and other irregularities. ON YOUR NEXT RIDE: You'll either be on your bike because you didn't find a crack, or you'll be on your way to the shop for a pro evaluation. If your carbon frame is cracked, don't mess around. Failure could be catastrophic.

Polygon news ... ( bukan iklan )

Teknologi terbaru di bidang sepeda hadir dalam seluruh line-up sepeda Polygon 2011. Komponen Shimano SLX groupset yang selama ini terkenal bandel dan tahan banting, kini telah melengkapi Polygon Cozmic 2011 dan Polygon Collosus 2011 dengan edisi terbarunya 10 speed. Langkah serupa juga diterapkan pada jajaran sepeda Polygon Xtrada, Polygon Supreme dan Polygon Celine, dengan mengaplikasikan komponen Alivio 9 speed groupset.
Selain pengadopsian komponen, beberapa model sepeda Polygon dilakukan penyempurnaan teknologi suspensi FSS (Floating Suspension System), terutama pada model Collosus. Teknologi suspensi yang sudah terbukti unggul di berbagai lomba ini merupakan hasil rancangan khusus dari Polygon untuk sepeda yang menggunakan full suspension. Teknologi FSS terbaru diterapkan pada deretan sepeda Polygon DH Series, FR Series, AX Series, dan SX Series.
Satu lagi yang terbilang sangat revolusioner yakni lahirnya sepeda terbaru Collosus Carbon frame dual suspension, CRX-XTR dan CRX-XX. Kedua sepeda ini menggunakan serat karbon sebagai frame utama. Di antara produsen sepeda dunia, hanya segelintir yang mampu merilis sepeda berbahan serat karbon ini pada model dual suspension, dan Polygon termasuk salah satunya.
Khusus pada Polygon DH (downhill) dan Polygon FR (freeride) Series, terdapat terobosan pada sektor Head Tube yang menggunakan system teknologi adjustable head angle.  Teknologi ini juga merupakan terobosan terbaru dan memberi solusi jitu bagi para downhiller kala menghadapi berbagai karakter medan downhill.
Tak hanya pada sepeda dual suspension saja yang mengalami revolusi pada frame. Hal serupa juga diterapkan pada model Polygon Cozmic dengan desain baru head tube-nya. Perubahan ini bertujuan untuk mengurangi bobot sepeda sekaligus memperkuat stuktur frame di bagian depan.
Untuk sepeda road race, Polygon Helios Carbon Frame kini mengadopsi internal cable routing system. Penerapan jalur kabel di dalam pipa frame ini, bertujuan menambah aerodinamika dan segi estetika bentuk frame sehingga tampil lebih cantik dan menawan.

steve peat .....

About steve Peat
steve peat .....

waktu masih dalam box.......

Memilih frame yang tepat dengan ukuran tubuh .....

http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer

..............

Emergency bike repairs

Seatpost Emergency Repair (BikeRadar)

Previous

• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 

Next

View Thumbnail Gallery

What do you do when your bike breaks down miles from home? You can stick out your thumb, you can call a cab, or with a bit of preparation and ingenuity, you can get yourself home. Here's how.

Preparation is the key. As well as the basics of a pump, multi-tool and a spare inner-tube or two, carry a survival kit of essential spares and materials. Use a small container, such as an old Tip-Top patch kit box or a 35mm film canister, and fill it with the following, packing them in tightly so as not to rattle:

•  Small and medium zip-ties
•  A small piece of cut-down Biro casing wrapped with a length of duct tape
•  One or two SRAM Power Links, 9 and/or 10-speed, depending on your bike and those of people you ride with if you want to be Bicycle Repair Man. These links will work with most chains
•  A small length of malleable wire (copper wire that can be twisted by hand is best)
•  Some 20p or 50p coins
•  A piece of tyre casing or other suitable material cut down to about 5cm square
•  Optionally, a spare 5mm Allen bolt or two, about 2.5cm in length, and 4mm and 6mm Allen bolts if you have enough space to fit them in your container
•  A St Christopher medallion or lucky charm! 

Bike prep for panic prevention

1.  Replace a couple of your shorter 5mm bottle-cage bolts with longer ones that are 3-4cm; these can be used on many modern twin bolt seatposts or clamps.
2.  Fill your tubes with tyre sealant such as Slime. This can be extremely effective at warding off the debris from recently trimmed hedgerow. You can buy pre-filled tubes or inject sealant into Schrader or two-piece Presta valves. To treat tubes with one-piece Presta valves, you can cut a hole in them (as small a possible!), inject the sealant and fix it afterwards.
3.  Buy a couple of spare normal spokes of the right length, with nipples, and tape them or zip tie them tightly under the left chainstay to keep them out of sight – they are handy to have in reserve.

Now you're all set, here's how to use your emergency kit to deal with common problems

Loose jockey wheels

Jockey wheels have an annoying habit of coming loose, usually because they weren't tightened correctly after cleaning. That piece of copper wire or the 5mm bolt you've got can now do its thing. Just loop the cable through the centre of the jockey wheel to keep it in place.

Badly slashed tyre

Use your handy survival kit duct tape and install a slightly larger piece overlapping the bead of the tyre, thus anchoring it securely when inflated. You might want to put a second layer, or even use the piece of cloth or tyre casing, which you also happen to have in your box of tricks.

Broken seatpost clamp

Re-attach a saddle to a seatpost when the clamp bolt has broken using zip-ties, but sit on it gingerly for the ride home. It's not perfect but better than sitting on a seatpost.

No spare tube

Carefully tear the tube apart at the puncture, then tightly knot both ends; or do the same with your handy zip-ties. The tube will expand back into the tyre upon infl ation, but go easy on the pressure.

Bent rear mech or gear hanger

Place the bent rear mech into the smallest cog and big ring, then carefully and slowly pull the derailleur back into position. The cage of the rear mech should be in line with the smallest sprocket and check that it's pointing in a perpendicular direction to the ground.

Be careful when selecting the lowest gear while riding afterwards though, as the derailleur might no longer be as well adjusted and could get caught in the spokes.

Broken Rear Mech Or Gear Hanger

If your derailleur or hanger is broken beyond repair, you can remove it entirely and then shorten your chain using the SRAM Power Links in your survival kit. This repair depends on a bit of luck and preparation – having a multi-tool that includes a chain breaker will make life a lot easier, though you might not be able to get ideal chain tension if you have vertical dropouts. Try to get the chain line as straight as possible.

Bolt-on repairs

You can pinch a bolt from a place on the bike where it can be spared, and use it where it's more critical in an emergency. If you lose a stem bolt, for example, you can borrow one from a rack strut or from a water bottle cage bolt. But be careful and go easy until a permanent replacement can be found, especially if you think  carbon parts might be damaged. Run a cloth lightly over suspect areas to check for a cracked surface – any small cracks will pull the cloth's threads.

Pretzeled wheel

If replacing a spoke won't do or isn't an option, a pretzeled wheel can be straightened sufficiently to get you home with a bit of technique and brute force. Place the wheel with the axle and high point of the buckle against the ground, then firmly push with substantial weight while gripping the rim on either side of the bent zone. You can focus and increase your leverage by using your feet in place of hands and body weight, along with a stone or raised surface feature such as a kerb.

Having your brake quick release open will reduce the chances of the wheel rubbing all the way home. Exceptions might be if you have a delicate carbon frame with tight clearances, where a few miles of tyre rub could not only result in a blowout, but put a hole in your chainstays, seatstays, or fork blades. Those spare coins might come in handy now if you forgot your phone or ran out of battery charge.

Tyre removal

A useful trick is knowing how to remove a tyre without the aid of tyre levers. First, make sure all the air is removed, then lean over the wheel, holding it vertically against the ground. Starting with both hands at the top, pinch and manipulate the tyre beads into the centre of the rim channel simultaneously, with both hands working downwards.

As your hands meet towards the bottom you'll find that you've gained a substantial amount of slack, which should be enough to just pull the bead over the rim flange. If it's still a little tight, remove your quick-release skewer and use the lever – it works!

Check the tyre for any debris before fitting the new inner tube. Run your hands all the way round the inside of the wheel rim to feel for anything that may have pierced the casing such as a thorn or piece of glass, taking care not to cut your fingers.

Gear cable repairs

If you break a gear cable, it's most likely to be the rear one, in the lever itself or near the head-tube where most friction occurs.

Remove your front derailleur cable and carefully thread it through the right lever (you'll probably have to twist it in the direction of the winding to stop the strands from fraying). Tie it using a square knot onto the cable attached to the rear mech, about halfway along the down-tube.

Before tying the knot, push the mech up onto the big cog. This will take up any slack when it's released – though with a multi-tool you can take up the slack in the usual way.

You can also immobilise the derailleur in a specific gear if all cable options are gone – jam a twig or piece of debris in the parallelogram, after placing it into the desired gear

nggak ada judul...........

Fitting and removing pedals (BikeRadar)

Previous

• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 

Next

View Thumbnail Gallery

Whatever kind of bike you ride, be it mud beast, road speedster or a simple mode of transportation, it will benefit from a good maintenance routine. A few basic tasks that you perform frequently can lengthen the life of your bike and protect your machine from costly mistakes. Our in-depth guide will help you tune your routine to prevent common issues and keep those wheels spinning.

Tools for the job

A good set of kit is essential for your maintenance efforts, so don’t skimp and get the cheapest tools available. You'll often find they won’t do the job without damaging your bike. Replace worn tools and take care of the ones you own to avoid impairing their functionality. There are many common tools you'll require to get a good routine in place, so let's explore those first.

Allen keys

Ball-ended Allen keys are designed to make tightening or undoing Allen bolts with limited access easy. It's best to use the standard end for the final tightening or initial loosening. For normal use, multi-headed Allen keys such as the Y or four-headed type are more versatile than individual keys. Y-type spanners with socket heads will also grip bolts better than open-ended spanners, and they're often easier to use.

Y-type (A+C) and four-headed type (B) keys are often easier to use than open-ended spanners (D)

Screwdriver blades

Keep your screwdrivers in good order by using a file to remove any burrs and square up the end. Make sure the end of the blade is of even thickness to ensure a good bite into screw heads and prevent slipping.

Tools supplied with components

Many components will be supplied with the correct tools to fit them, so if you get a shop to fit the parts for you, make sure that you ask for the tool. Pictured here is a bottom bracket cup tool for Hollowtech bottom brackets, which is useful for removing or fitting the cups.

Cassette lockring tools

An older style Shimano HG Freewheel extractor will work with both Shimano and Campag cassette lockrings, but it's best to ensure that you have the correct style of tool for your bike's cassette to prevent damage. 

Vice

A standard 4in vice is an ideal but space consuming tool. If you don't have space for a permanently mounted vice, it's possible to mount one on a board and clamp it to a suitable table when needed. This temporary vice will be strong enough for most bicycle jobs, but be aware that it is not as secure as a bench bolted vice.

How to make a temporary vice

Materials needed

• Offcut of kitchen worktop about 60 x 30cm
• Vice mounting bolts
• Some sheet steel (which can be salvaged from an old biscuit tin)
• Four reinforcing plates 
• A piece of wood about 75 x 25mm
• Offcuts of hardwood about 10mm thick 
• Size 6 and 8 wood screws
• Two G-clamps

1] With tin snips, cut a piece of sheet steel about 20cm square. Fit it to the underside of the worktop (around where you're going to mount the vice) with the small wood screws. Now drill holes (about 10mm wide) for the vice-mounting bolts. Bolt the vice to the board and the bolts will protrude below. Attach offcuts of hardwood either side of the bolt heads to protect your table from damage and at the back of the board to keep the vice level.

2] Fit reinforcing plates at the two front corners of the mounting board nearest the table edge where you'll clamp the board to the table. Fit similar plates to the long piece of 75x25mm wood to use between the underside of the table and the clamps. Now clamp the board to a sturdy table. Don’t forget to use soft facings for the vice jaws when you're holding threaded parts. 

Workstand

A good workshop stand is essential, and many fold up if you do not have much space. Although it can be tempting to use a makeshift alternative, such as hanging the bike with ropes, these 'solutions' are often dangerous and next to useless.

When using the stand, angle your bike so that it points slightly ‘downhill’, as this will prevent excess movement from the front wheel. If your frame is made of carbon fibre or aluminium, avoid clamping the bike's tubes. Instead, clamp the frame to a suitable seatpost – preferably a spare steel one that you can fit for the sole purpose of working on your bike.

Common Tasks

Fitting and removing pedals

All pedals have left or right-hand threads. They're generally marked – the right-hand pedal with an R or D and the left-hand pedal with an L or S. 

Pedal threads are designed to stay tight when you pedal. To undo your pedals turn the spindle in the opposite direction to your pedalling action. The opposite applies when you're tightening – turn the spindle in the same direction as you would pedal. Don’t forget to use anti-seize grease on the pedal threads to prevent them becoming stuck and to re-apply the grease regularly.

Don’t forget to use anti-seize grease on the pedal threads to prevent them becoming stuck and to re-apply the grease regularly

Chains

 A slightly dry chain will often prevent your gears from working properly – keep your chain lubricated with a good quality chain lube at all times. Use a piece of newspaper behind and underneath the chain when lubricating it.

To maximise cassette and chain life, buy three new chains when fitting a new cassette. After 500 miles replace the first chain with the second. After a further 500 miles replace the second with the third and continue to rotate the chains every 500 miles. 

If you've got an aluminium cassette instead, reduce the distance between rotations to 250 miles. 

Adjusting front derailleur position

When adjusting the position of a front derailleur, a plastic-faced hammer or rubber mallet is very useful to tap the gear into the optimum position.

Chainsets

Crank removal

Removing cotterless cranks from a standard square taper axle can be tricky, even with a good extractor. If the crank is very tight, tighten the extractor and, using a plastic hammer or rubber mallet, tap firmly around the boss of the crank to shock the taper free.

Shimano Octalink 2 crank packing piece

Make sure that the packing piece on the left-hand Shimano Octalink crank is always present when refitting the crank – if it's missing, the crank bolts will be over-tightened and may cause the crank to crack, which is an expensive mistake to make.

Fitting tyres

If the tyre bead sinks into the rim well at one point on the wheel, there will be another point on the wheel where the bead can be easily forced over the rim edge by the air pressure in the tyre. The solution is to use either thick or several layers of rim tape – this will prevent the tyre bead from sinking into the rim well and blowing the tyres off.

Simple solutions

Anti-seize grease

Some of the most common and difficult problems to solve are caused by components that have seized up. To prevent this regularly remove the seatpost and coat with anti-seize grease. Do the same with your pedal threads.

Thread lock

Common parts to loosen and fall off on bikes are bottle cage bolts and chainring bolts. Remove them and put a drip of thread lock on each bolt before reassembling – they will still undo when necessary but won’t vibrate loose.